Wednesday will be a pretty good surf day at the more protected spots. The expose breaks will be a bit sloppy with both shape and increasing afternoon winds becoming a problem.
In the water we will have a mix of WNW wind/groundswell coming off that little storm that rolled over us the last couple of days. The swell periods make it look like a longer-period windswell (around 10-seconds or so) but it is actually a combo of fading longer-period WNW swell and the steeper local NW windswell. There is also a touch of S-SW swell holding in the background and occasionally crossing up the WNW energy at the combo breaks.
Wave heights will still be healthy at the NW facing beaches. The more open spots will be running about head high to overhead surf fairly consistently and some bigger sets going a few feet overhead at times. Shape is likely to be a bit lumpy thanks the stacked up nature of the swell…look for the best surf at spots that like the windswell swell-periods.
The protected spots in Santa Cruz and along the Central Coast will be smaller but much more organized. Look for waist-chest high+ surf through the morning high tide and then some shoulder-head high sets sneaking through on the low tide later in the day.
Winds look better on Wednesday. Most areas will have light N-NW winds around 10-15 knots through the morning. Central Coast (and Santa Cruz) areas will have N-NW winds around 5 knots through the morning. All areas see building NW winds 10-20+ knots by the afternoon.
I think that your best bet, again, is going to be the more protected areas. They will be a lot cleaner and even though they will be smaller than the more exposed breaks they will still have some healthy sets. The high tide in the morning is a bit problematic but if you can stall your session for a couple of hours past the dawn patrol you will see better shape and better consistency.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Monday, April 14, 2008
Tuesday’s Windy Surf
Tuesday will have some more surf…but it will be pretty bumpy (basically blown out) at the more exposed breaks.
We will see that mix of WNW wind/ground swell continue to push in on Tuesday. Average areas will continue to see shoulder-overhead surf with sets going a few feet overhead at times. Conditions at these spots will likely be poor thanks to steadily increasing onshore winds.
Protected areas, like Santa Cruz and a few others along the Central Coast, will have surf in the chest-shoulder high range with a few head high and overhead sets mixing in. These areas will be cleaner compared to the more exposed beaches but expect a lot of bump even at the protected breaks.
There is a cold front moving through the area late tonight that will be driving the winds tomorrow. Forecasts are calling for NW winds 10-20+ knots for the morning and a steady 10-20 knots for the afternoon.
If you have to surf then you are going to want to head to the protected areas. The more open spots are going to be trashed…particularly if the winds stay strong late tonight. Also you may want to skip the dawn patrol…it will be cold, breezy, and there will a near 5’ high tide pushing through around 6am that is going to keep things pretty soft. I would give it a couple of hours to warm up and for that tide to drop before heading out.
We will see that mix of WNW wind/ground swell continue to push in on Tuesday. Average areas will continue to see shoulder-overhead surf with sets going a few feet overhead at times. Conditions at these spots will likely be poor thanks to steadily increasing onshore winds.
Protected areas, like Santa Cruz and a few others along the Central Coast, will have surf in the chest-shoulder high range with a few head high and overhead sets mixing in. These areas will be cleaner compared to the more exposed beaches but expect a lot of bump even at the protected breaks.
There is a cold front moving through the area late tonight that will be driving the winds tomorrow. Forecasts are calling for NW winds 10-20+ knots for the morning and a steady 10-20 knots for the afternoon.
If you have to surf then you are going to want to head to the protected areas. The more open spots are going to be trashed…particularly if the winds stay strong late tonight. Also you may want to skip the dawn patrol…it will be cold, breezy, and there will a near 5’ high tide pushing through around 6am that is going to keep things pretty soft. I would give it a couple of hours to warm up and for that tide to drop before heading out.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Monday’s Surf – New NW swell mix and more NW winds
Monday we will see building surf and it looks like a bunch of NW wind to go with it.
In the water we will have a mix of building WNW swell (290-310) and some increasing NW windswell along with a touch of background SW energy. Most exposed breaks will be running in the shoulder-head high+ range with sets going overhead as the windswell starts to pour it on.
Standout breaks, mostly the more exposed beach breaks around SF and further north will have sets going overhead+ at times but it looks like sloppy conditions from the get-go.
Winds start off out of the W-NW around 5-12 knots then build to about 20-25 knots by the afternoon.
With the wind picking up early and getting pretty strong by the afternoon I think that your best bet for getting waves will definitely be at the spots protected from the NW winds. Areas like many of the spots in Santa Cruz (and along the Central Coast) will be able to pick up most of the swell mix but groom out more of the wind. It will be smaller than more exposed breaks but much more rideable.
In the water we will have a mix of building WNW swell (290-310) and some increasing NW windswell along with a touch of background SW energy. Most exposed breaks will be running in the shoulder-head high+ range with sets going overhead as the windswell starts to pour it on.
Standout breaks, mostly the more exposed beach breaks around SF and further north will have sets going overhead+ at times but it looks like sloppy conditions from the get-go.
Winds start off out of the W-NW around 5-12 knots then build to about 20-25 knots by the afternoon.
With the wind picking up early and getting pretty strong by the afternoon I think that your best bet for getting waves will definitely be at the spots protected from the NW winds. Areas like many of the spots in Santa Cruz (and along the Central Coast) will be able to pick up most of the swell mix but groom out more of the wind. It will be smaller than more exposed breaks but much more rideable.
Friday, April 11, 2008
Weekend Surf – Slow start on Saturday but a fun combo on Sunday
We should have some nice conditions and some fun surf over the weekend.
Saturday will start slow with mostly leftovers…a touch of local windswell, some background WNW energy, and some minor SW energy.
Average spots will be around waist-chest high...inconsistent at times, and tide sensitive, but decent for longboarding, maybe a small fish. Try and plan around the low tide bottom out. The better exposed beach breaks, mostly north of SF will be in the chest-shoulder high+ range off the steeper NW windswell…it might actually be better to check those spots on the low tide…get a few steeper sections with less water.
Sunday looks like the best day.
We will have a mix of building S-SW swell and some new WNW energy. Most spots will jump into the waist-shoulder high+ range while the standout W facing breaks, particularly the combo spots, will see some head high sets. Look for the biggest surf in the afternoon as the swells get a chance to get going a bit better and overall shape is helped by the tide push.
Winds and weather will be ok as well. Saturday should be really nice with light offshore winds through most of the day. Sunday a little cooler but still mostly light winds through the dawn patrol. Look for W winds around 10 knots through the afternoons…particularly up by the Bay Area.
Have a great weekend! But make sure to check back…there is a decent looking storm in the South Pacific that is brewing up right now…I will put together a post on it over the next day or so.
Saturday will start slow with mostly leftovers…a touch of local windswell, some background WNW energy, and some minor SW energy.
Average spots will be around waist-chest high...inconsistent at times, and tide sensitive, but decent for longboarding, maybe a small fish. Try and plan around the low tide bottom out. The better exposed beach breaks, mostly north of SF will be in the chest-shoulder high+ range off the steeper NW windswell…it might actually be better to check those spots on the low tide…get a few steeper sections with less water.
Sunday looks like the best day.
We will have a mix of building S-SW swell and some new WNW energy. Most spots will jump into the waist-shoulder high+ range while the standout W facing breaks, particularly the combo spots, will see some head high sets. Look for the biggest surf in the afternoon as the swells get a chance to get going a bit better and overall shape is helped by the tide push.
Winds and weather will be ok as well. Saturday should be really nice with light offshore winds through most of the day. Sunday a little cooler but still mostly light winds through the dawn patrol. Look for W winds around 10 knots through the afternoons…particularly up by the Bay Area.
Have a great weekend! But make sure to check back…there is a decent looking storm in the South Pacific that is brewing up right now…I will put together a post on it over the next day or so.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Friday’s Surf – Still a few fun lumpy ones
Friday will be a decent surf day…but expect some semi-lumpy shape at the more exposed breaks thanks to the windswell.
In the water we will have a mix of WNW windswell (300+) and some very small SW swell. Most exposed breaks will be in the chest-head high range while the standout beach breaks, mostly near SF, will have some larger sets.
Santa Cruz areas will be smaller…mostly knee-chest high at the average breaks…maybe a touch larger at the top spots.
Winds and weather are looking good for the morning. Look for N-NE winds around 5-15 knots for both SF and Santa Cruz during the dawn patrol. NW winds in the 10-20 knot range build in through the afternoon.
If you are surfing tomorrow you will have to make a bit of a compromise…size for shape. The bigger beach breaks will be on the lumpy side with mostly dumpy windswell shape. The more protected spots, points and reefs, will be smaller but more organized. You just basically have to pick your poison.
Tides may be an issue as well…there is a -.5 low that hits around 9:45-10am that will drain out a lot of spots…try and plan around it if you can, either early morning or lunchtime would be good times to check it.
In the water we will have a mix of WNW windswell (300+) and some very small SW swell. Most exposed breaks will be in the chest-head high range while the standout beach breaks, mostly near SF, will have some larger sets.
Santa Cruz areas will be smaller…mostly knee-chest high at the average breaks…maybe a touch larger at the top spots.
Winds and weather are looking good for the morning. Look for N-NE winds around 5-15 knots for both SF and Santa Cruz during the dawn patrol. NW winds in the 10-20 knot range build in through the afternoon.
If you are surfing tomorrow you will have to make a bit of a compromise…size for shape. The bigger beach breaks will be on the lumpy side with mostly dumpy windswell shape. The more protected spots, points and reefs, will be smaller but more organized. You just basically have to pick your poison.
Tides may be an issue as well…there is a -.5 low that hits around 9:45-10am that will drain out a lot of spots…try and plan around it if you can, either early morning or lunchtime would be good times to check it.
More shark attack stuff…(man can’t we all just get along?)
So my friend over at the OCRegister emailed me this story this morning…and no it is not another HB shark attack…it actually happened out in Fiji.
Basically a local Fijian fisherman was attacked by three sharks as he was fishing near a more obscure surf spot (IE Not Tavaraua). According to the article and the photos the sharks tore up his arm pretty badly and he was in danger of bleeding out before he could get medical help.
Fortunately for the fisherman there was a surfer, Tom Rolfes, who happened to be a dentist, visiting the island with his family. The Doc sacked up, broke out his emergency kit, and managed to sew the fisherman back together enough to save his life.
I thought I would give a shout out to the Doctor and his family for pulling off some high-pressure heroics.
Here is a picture of the Dr. Rolfes in action.
And here is a link to the story…make sure to check it out (Laylan does a much better job of telling it than I can).
http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rolfes-meli-surf-2015023-timmy-island
I am just stoked that the Dr. was able to save the guy’s life, MacGyver style….and still managed to sneak a surf photo into the OCreg’s slide show. Classic.
Basically a local Fijian fisherman was attacked by three sharks as he was fishing near a more obscure surf spot (IE Not Tavaraua). According to the article and the photos the sharks tore up his arm pretty badly and he was in danger of bleeding out before he could get medical help.
Fortunately for the fisherman there was a surfer, Tom Rolfes, who happened to be a dentist, visiting the island with his family. The Doc sacked up, broke out his emergency kit, and managed to sew the fisherman back together enough to save his life.
I thought I would give a shout out to the Doctor and his family for pulling off some high-pressure heroics.
Here is a picture of the Dr. Rolfes in action.
And here is a link to the story…make sure to check it out (Laylan does a much better job of telling it than I can).
http://www.ocregister.com/articles/rolfes-meli-surf-2015023-timmy-island
I am just stoked that the Dr. was able to save the guy’s life, MacGyver style….and still managed to sneak a surf photo into the OCreg’s slide show. Classic.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
Thursday in NorCal – A few fun spring waves
Thursday looks like a decent surf day…at least in the morning at the more protected areas. (nice caveat huh…)
We will have a nice mix of NW windswell and a moderate W-WNW swell running throughout the day. There will also a very small touch of SW hanging out in the background.
Most exposed breaks…mostly the more open beach breaks will have surf holding in the shoulder-head high range with a few lumpy sets hitting the overhead mark. It will be on the sloppy side with the windswell crossing it up…it may be better to find a smaller less exposed spot.
More protected breaks like the ones through Santa Cruz will be in the waist-shoulder high range…with a few bigger sets at the standout breaks on the tide push.
Winds are expected to be N-NW around 10-15 knots at the more exposed beaches around SF and the Central Coast. Monterey Bay looks cleaner with NE winds around 5 knots in the morning. All areas see increasing onshore NW winds around 10-20 knots by the afternoon.
We will have a nice mix of NW windswell and a moderate W-WNW swell running throughout the day. There will also a very small touch of SW hanging out in the background.
Most exposed breaks…mostly the more open beach breaks will have surf holding in the shoulder-head high range with a few lumpy sets hitting the overhead mark. It will be on the sloppy side with the windswell crossing it up…it may be better to find a smaller less exposed spot.
More protected breaks like the ones through Santa Cruz will be in the waist-shoulder high range…with a few bigger sets at the standout breaks on the tide push.
Winds are expected to be N-NW around 10-15 knots at the more exposed beaches around SF and the Central Coast. Monterey Bay looks cleaner with NE winds around 5 knots in the morning. All areas see increasing onshore NW winds around 10-20 knots by the afternoon.
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